French tarragon is essential for summer cooking, especially for fish, chicken, meat salads and for grilling vegetables. The flavor is subtle, a gentle licorice or sweet anise. Several plants are sold as French tarragon, including the closely related flavorless Russian tarragon. The true French tarragon never flowers, and is always a bit homely. It prefers excellent drainage and some space to flop over and root in. After many years of replanting it in our gardens, we have found that raised beds give us the happiest growth and best possibility of having it return from dormancy year after year.